RAVIOLO AL UOVO
Steps:
- Cover the porcinis with hot or room temp water and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Remove from the liquid with a slotted spoon before dicing into small pieces.
- Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
- Toss the chanterelles with olive oil and season with salt. Put on a sheet tray and roast in the oven until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Reserve for garnish.
- To a saute pan over medium-high heat, add the guanciale and render until crispy. Transfer the guanciale with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel-lined plate. To the guanciale fat in the pan, add the sage leaves and fry until crispy, about 30 seconds. Season the sage leaves with salt. Crumble the sage and set aside. Reserve the guanciale and sage for garnish.
- In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, Parmigiano, parsley, 2 whole eggs and the diced porcinis; mix well and season with salt.
- Dust a clean work surface lightly with all-purpose flour and lay out 2 sheets (at least 12 inches long) of the rolled Chef Anne's All-Purpose Pasta Dough; brush them lightly with water. Equally space 4 dollops of the ricotta mixture on each pasta sheet, then use a spoon to make a "nest" or small hole in the center of each dollop. Carefully separate the remaining 8 eggs one at a time and put a yolk in each ricotta "nest" the ricotta should lovingly nestle each yolk (if a yolk breaks, scoop it out with a spoon and don't use it).
- Cover each sheet of ricotta "nests" and egg yolks with another sheet of pasta. Use your index fingers to press around each ricotta nest to seal the edges, then use a fluted ring cutter or dough roller to cut around each ravioli (they should be 3 to 4 inches in diameter). Reserve the ravioli on a tray generously dusted with semolina.
- Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. In a large saute pan, melt 1/2 stick of the butter and add 1/4 cup of the chicken stock (you're going to use the remainder for your next batch); add a sage sprig and season with salt. Bring this to boil and reduce to a simmer.
- Add 4 of the ravioli to the boiling water and cook for about 2 minutes, no more. Using a spider or slotted spoon, carefully transfer the ravioli from the water to the pan with the butter and chicken stock and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. If the sauce reduces too much, add a few drops of the pasta cooking water. The sauce should cling to the ravioli in a buttery hug. Repeat with the remaining 4 ravioli, using the remaining 1/2 stick butter, 1/4 cup chicken stock and 1 sprig sage to make the sauce.
- Transfer the ravioli to serving plates, 1 per plate. Spoon a little extra sauce over each one and finish with a sprinkey-dink of the grated Parm, guanciale, chanterelles and fried sage.
- Put the flour on a clean dry work surface. Make a hole (this is also called a well) in the center of the flour pile that is about 8 inches wide (bigger is definitely better here). Crack all of the eggs and the yolk into the hole and add the olive oil, water and salt.
- Using a fork, beat the eggs together with the olive oil, water and salt. Using the fork, begin to incorporate the flour into the egg mixture; be careful not to break the sides of the well or the egg mixture will run all over your board and you will have a big mess! Also, don't worry about the lumps. When enough flour has been incorporated into the egg mixture that it will not run all over the place when the sides of the well are broken, begin to use your hands to really get everything well combined. If the mixture is tight and dry, wet your hands and begin kneading with wet hands. When the mixture has really come together to a homogeneous mixture, THEN you can start kneading.
- When kneading, it is VERY important to put your body weight into it, get on top of the dough to really stretch it and not to tear the dough. Using the heels of your palms, roll the dough to create a very smooooooth, supple dough. When done, the dough should look VERY smooth and feel almost velvety. Kneading will usually take from 8 to 10 minutes for an experienced kneader and 10 to 15 for an inexperienced kneader. Put your body weight into it, you need to knead! This is where the perfect, toothsome texture of your pasta is formed. Get in there and have fun! When the pasta has been kneaded to the perfect consistency, wrap it in plastic and let rest for at least 1 hour. If using immediately after that, do not refrigerate.
- Roll and cut the pasta into the desired shape. How smooth and supple!
RAVIOLO AL'UOVO
After culinary school, I spent a year in Italy learning to cook Italian food the way the Italians do, the right way. That year was probably one of the most important of my education; I learned a ton from the chefs I worked for-techniques and methods I still rely on every day. I also learned how to make this dish-which is a total showstopper. Uovo means "egg," and that's what this dish is all about: a lovely golden egg yolk nestled in a bed of creamy ricotta cheese all wrapped up in a tender blanket of pasta. Cut these lovelies open and the yolk flows out of the center. It's an incredibly sophisticated and sexy dish, but deceivingly easy to make-the only catch is you have to cook the raviolis in batches. I realize this may seem like a pain, but it's really the best approach as these ravs are very fragile (and they do cook really quickly, so it's actually not that big a deal). I promise it's worth it, because this recipe will make you a rock star!
Yield serves: 8
Number Of Ingredients 11
Steps:
- In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, Parm, parsley, and 2 whole eggs; mix well and season with salt.
- Dust a clean work surface lightly with all-purpose flour and lay out two sheets of pasta about 12 inches long; brush them lightly with water. Equally space 4 dollops of the ricotta mixture on each pasta sheet; then use a spoon to make a "nest" or small hole in the center of each dollop. Carefully separate the remaining eggs (reserve the whites for another purpose) and put a yolk in each ricotta "nest"-the ricotta should lovingly nestle each yolk (if a yolk breaks, scoop it out with a spoon and don't use it).
- Cover the ricotta nests and egg yolk with another sheet of pasta. Use your index fingers to press around each ricotta nest to seal the edges, then use a fluted ring cutter or dough roller to cut around each ravioli (they should be 3 to 4 inches in diameter). Reserve the ravioli on a tray generously dusted with semolina.
- Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. In a large sauté pan, melt half the butter and add half of the chicken stock (you're going to use the remainder for your next batch); season with salt and toss in half the sage. Bring this to a boil (BTB) and reduce to a simmer (RTS).
- Add 4 of the ravioli to the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes. Using a spider or slotted spoon, carefully transfer the ravioli from the water to the pan with butter and chicken stock and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. If the sauce reduces too much, add a few drops of the pasta cooking water. The sauce should cling to the ravioli in a buttery hug.
- Transfer the ravioli to serving plates, spoon a little extra sauce over each one, and finish with a sprinkey-dink of grated Parm. Repeat with the remaining butter, stock, sage, and ravioli.
- Save the leftover egg whites for another purpose. You can even freeze them if you like.
PASTA ALL'UOVO (EGG DOUGH)
As important as it is to develop feel and instinct when making dough, there is a metric formula for making pasta all'uovo. For every 100 grams of flour, use 1 (50- to 55-gram) egg, which corresponds to 1 USDA medium egg.
Provided by Oretta Zanini De Vita
Number Of Ingredients 3
Steps:
- Hand method:
- Sift the flour onto a large wooden board. Form the flour into a mound with the approximate profile of Mount Fuji. Form your hand into a loose fist, and, with the back of the fingers, gently ream out the center of the mound until you have something that resembles a low, broad volcano with a very deep crater. Italian cooks call this a fountain, fontana, for the pool of liquid in the center, but it's definitely a cone.
- Break all the eggs into the crater one by one. Pierce the yolks with a fork and begin gingerly to use the fork to incorporate them into the flour with a movement something like scrambling eggs. Incorporate the liquid from the center outward. The walls of the crater will keep the liquid from running out.
- When the liquid has absorbed enough flour that you now have a messy, wet dough surrounded by flour, knock what's left of the volcano in toward the center and begin to knead with your hands to incorporate the rest of the flour into the dough. Scrape up all the remaining flour and the dough bits and squeeze them into the dough.
- Food processor method:
- Put all the ingredients in the container of a food processor fitted with the steel blade (not pastry hooks or the like). Let rip at high speed until you see crumbs forming. Keep going until the dough forms a ball. You may become convinced that your dough will never form a single ball, only many little ones. In that case, give up because you risk overheating the dough. Pour what you have out on the wooden board; use your hands to form the pieces into a single loaf of dough.
- Kneading:
- The biggest mistake people make, says Oretta, is not using enough force. Skip the gym the day you make pasta and make kneading your workout. The women of Scandriglia, where Oretta has her country house, recommend making fettuccine as a remedy for backache in preference to those boring exercises. On the other hand, my friend Antonietta, who learned to make pasta as a child in Basilicata, tells me southern men enjoy watching the undulating hips of southern women as they knead the pasta dough. If it helps to put on some music and do the maccheroni mambo as you knead, go right ahead.
- Plant your feet firmly on the floor and the heels of your hands firmly on the dough in front of you. A dining table will usually be a more comfortable height than a kitchen counter, which may be too high. With all your strength, and leaning in with your whole body, push the dough forward hard with the heel of one hand, then with the heel of the other hand. Then fold it over and continue the movement, alternating hands-or whatever works for you. You're pushing the whole piece of dough forward, so it moves on the board.
- After each completed movement, give the dough a quarter turn and repeat. Keep this up for 30 minutes, or as long as you can stand. If you've used the food processor, 15 or 20 minutes will do. You can quit early, too, if you plan to use a rolling machine: send the dough through one extra pass for each minute of kneading saved.
- As you work, the dough may seem dry, but you don't want it to be wet and sticky. It needs just enough moisture to hold it together, not a drop more. If your dough is so dry that you are quite sure it will never hold together, you can add a teensy bit of water. (It used to be quite normal to use water to save eggs, which could be sold for cash.) Your goal is a single smooth loaf of dough that is not sticky to the touch. If the flour is either very freshly ground (hence moister) or very old (drier), you'll have to adjust by feel. When it feels just right-moist but not tacky, considerably drier than the average dog's nose-set it aside for a moment.
- You'll probably need to clean the board about halfway through the process. Use a plastic scraper or the blunt side of a large knife to scrape up any bits that have stuck to the board. (Sharp knives may damage your nice wooden board, and their edges are dulled by scraping.) Likewise wash your hands, which are doubtless also encrusted with bits of dried dough by this time.
- Resting:
- Once you have a beautifully silky loaf of dough, let it rest for 30 minutes to let the gluten develop. Wrap it in foil, or just place it on the board and invert a bowl over it until you're ready. By this time, you probably need to put your feet up too.
- When the dough and you have rested, you can proceed to the next stage. Depending on what kind of pasta you want to make, this may involve rolling and cutting to make a pasta sheet (sfoglia) or pulling pieces directly from the loaf of dough and shaping them by hand.
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