Grilled Whole Orata With Fresh Herbs And Extra Virgin Olive Oil Food

GRILLED WHOLE ORATA WITH FRESH HERBS AND EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

Steps:

• Fill a medium saucepan with water, bring it to a boil over high heat, and salt it to taste like the ocean, adding about 1 tablespoon of salt for each quart of water. Place a colander in the sink or have a wire strainer handy and fill a large bowl with ice water. If you are using fig leaves, make a triangular cut at the stem end to remove the tough portion of the stem, where it meets the leaf. Add the fig or radicchio leaves to the boiling water and cook for 1 minute, until they are slightly wilted and pliable. Drain the leaves in the colander or remove them with the strainer and plunge them into the ice water for about 1 minute, until they've cooled, to stop them from cooking. Remove the leaves from the water and place them on paper towels to drain. Pat the leaves with paper towels to dry completely.
• Combine the chives, basil, parsley, and mint in a medium bowl. Drizzle with the 1/4 cup olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine the herbs and coat them with the seasonings.
• Fill a large wide bowl with ice and place the fish on the ice.
• Place one fish at a time on the cutting board, and if the fish still has fins, use kitchen shears to cut them off; discard the fins. Place the fish so the belly is facing you and the head is facing left (if you are right-handed; left-handers put the fish in the opposite direction). With your knife parallel to the edge of the fish, the blade facing the belly, and the palm of your free hand resting on top of the fish to hold it in place, enter the fish under the tail, and make a decisive cut from the tail to the head along the top edge of the vertebrae, cutting deep enough to expose the spine. (You want to make that cut in one fluid motion; using a 6-inch knife, the cut will utilize the length of the knife.) Turn the fish so the belly is away from you. Again, with your free hand resting on the fish to hold it in place and the knife parallel to the fish, make an incision from the head to the tail in the same fashion as the cut you made on the belly side, again making sure the incision is on the top edge of the vertebrae, deep enough to expose the spine. Using kitchen shears parallel to the counter, enter the fish through the incision and, with small cuts perpendicular to the edge of the spine, snip the bones that are connected to the fillet to detach it from the spine. Return the fish to the original position with the belly closest to you and make the same snips with the scissors to the other side of the spine. Wipe down your cutting board with a wet towel and flip the fish, so the belly is still facing you but the bottom side is now facing up, and make the same incision to the belly that you did the first time, now working from the head to the tail, but still cutting on the top edge of the vertebrae, again cutting in one decisive motion, deep enough to expose the spine. (With the first set of incisions, you were releasing one fillet of the fish from the spine, and you are now releasing the other fillet.) Wipe down the cutting board again as needed, turn the fish so the spine is facing you, and make one last cut, from the head to the tail, as you did the other three cuts. Use the kitchen shears to make the same small cuts perpendicular to the edge of the spine to snip the bones that are connected to the second fillet to detach it from the spine. You have now detached both the top and bottom fillets from the spine. Turn the fish to its original position with the head facing left (for right-handers). With your knife perpendicular to the fish and the blade facing the tail, enter the fish through the incision that you made to cut through the skin of the top fillet so your knife ends up over the tail, releasing the top fillet at the tail so that the fish can be opened up. Flip the top fillet over the head of the fish to open the fish. Use the shears to snip through the spine at the head and tail ends of the fish and lift and discard the spine; the spine will come out in one full piece; if not, look for any bones that may still be attached to the fillets and snip them with your scissors. Run the knife underneath the rib cage, nestled in the belly of the fish, to release the rib cage from the flesh and discard the rib cage. Using fish tweezers, remove and discard any visible bones from both fillets of fish. Place the fish on the ice and repeat, boning the remaining fish in the same way.
• When you have boned all the fish, wipe down and dry the cutting board, and place one fish on the board, belly closest to you. Lift the top fillet of the orata to open it and expose the cavity, and stuff one quarter of the herb mixture (about 2 cups, loosely packed) inside. Close the fish over the herbs, place it back on the ice, and repeat with the remaining fish.
• Lay two of the fig leaves or three of the radicchio leaves on a clean, dry cutting board. Lay one of the stuffed orata next to the leaves. Drizzle the fish with olive oil and drizzle the oil onto the leaf, making sure to get oil on the edges of the leaves, as it acts like glue, holding the leaves in place when you wrap them around the fish. Place the orata on the leaf at the edge closest to you and roll it away from you to wrap it with the leaves. Pat the leaves down to adhere and place the fish, sealed side down, in a nonreactive baking dish or on a large platter. Repeat with the remaining fish. When all the fish have been wrapped, place them, still on ice, in the refrigerator to chill for at least 10 minutes or up to several hours. You can prepare the fish up to this point up to two days in advance. Transfer them to a baking sheet or a plate, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until you are ready to use them.
• Cut the lemons in half and cut 1/2 inch off the pointed ends so each lemon half has two flat surfaces. Brush both cut ends with olive oil.
• Prepare a hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill or preheat a grill pan or heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat.
• Remove the orata from the refrigerator and use a pastry brush to pat olive oil on both sides of each fish. (Don't brush the oil on or you might loosen the leaf.) Place the fish sealed side down on the grill or in the grill pan to cook for 7 to 8 minutes per side, turning carefully to keep the fish intact, until it is golden brown and the leaves are crisp.
• While the fish are grilling, place the lemon halves with the larger, center side of the lemons facing down, on the grill or in the grill pan with the fish, for about 2 minutes, until golden brown. Turn and cook the smaller sides of the lemon for about 30 seconds just to warm them. Remove the orata to each of four plates and let them rest for 2 to 3 minutes before serving. Place one lemon half on each plate with the wider side facing up. Put bowls of olio nuevo or finishing-quality olive oil and sea salt on the side of each plate for people to personalize their fish, and serve.
• Fiano di Avellino (Campania)

GRILLED WHOLE MACKEREL WITH LEMON, OREGANO, AND OLIVES

Steps:

• Whisk together zest, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste, then add olive oil in a stream, whisking until combined well. Whisk in olives and chopped oregano.
• Make 1-inch-long slits at 2-inch intervals down middle of fish on both sides with a sharp paring knife, then brush fish all over with vegetable oil and season with salt and pepper. Season fish cavity with salt and pepper, then evenly distribute 3 lemon rounds and 3 oregano sprigs in cavity. Close cavity, then evenly arrange remaining 3 lemon rounds and 3 oregano sprigs on top of fish and tie fish closed with string at 2-inch intervals, securing lemon slices and oregano sprigs to fish.
• Prepare grill for cooking. If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. Charcoal fire is medium-hot when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 3 to 4 seconds. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate.
• Grill fish on lightly oiled grill rack, covered only if using gas grill, 15 minutes. Turn fish over using a metal spatula and tongs, then grill until just cooked through, about 15 minutes more.
• Transfer fish to a large platter using 2 metal spatulas, then cut and discard string. Serve fish with sauce.

GRILLED PORGY WITH LEMONS AND SCALLIONS

Steps:

• Prepare a charcoal grill until coals are ashed over and hot, or heat a charcoal grill to high. Or heat a broiler (see Tips).
• Cut 3 lemons into ½-inch-thick slices and discard any pits. Pat fish dry inside and out and season inside with salt. Place the lemon slices inside the fish, then place the thyme and oregano on top of the lemon. If the fish don't close around the stuffing, tie fish closed in two places with kitchen twine. Brush fish on both sides with 4 tablespoons olive oil.
• Toss scallions with a pinch of salt and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Cut the 2 remaining lemons in half, removing any seeds.
• Scrub the grill grate clean, then rub with an oiled kitchen towel or wad of paper towels. If your grill can fit everything, place everything on at once. Otherwise, start with the scallions and lemons, cut sides down. Season one side of each fish with salt and place salt side down on the grates next to the scallions and lemons. Grill (covered if using a gas grill), turning once, until the lemons and scallions are softened and lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes for the scallions and 5 minutes for the lemons. Grill the fish until the skin releases naturally from the grate, about 6 minutes, then salt the other side, cover and grill until cooked through, about 6 minutes longer. Test for doneness by slipping a paring knife into the center of the fish; it should feel hot when carefully touched to your lower lip or the inside of your wrist.
• Spread scallions on a serving platter and set lemon halves around the sides. Transfer the fish to the platter, remove the string and serve.