LAMB PALOISE
Occasionally we refer to Le Repertoire de la Cuisine, the little brown book of classic French recipes, to find inspiration for the Joe Beef menu. It's a gold mine of forgotten culinary knowledge, including the sauce paloise, a classic variation on sauce béarnaise that uses mint instead of tarragon. You decide on the meat. If you freak on kidneys, use kidneys. We like it on a mutton chop, one chop per person.
Yield Serves 2
Number Of Ingredients 18
Steps:
- To make the sauce, in a nonreactive saucepan, combine the shallots, vinegar, dried mint, and peppercorns over high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally just to keep the sides of the pan clean, until reduced by half. Strain the reduction. This is the beginning of your paloise. Discard the solids.
- In a saucepan, whisk together the yolks and the reduction. Now, create a double boiler-a small pan (or a heatproof bowl) above a larger pan-which is a good way to whisk your delicate sauce over high heat: Pour water to a depth of about 2 inches (5 cm) into a large pan, bring to a boil over high heat, and rest the small pan holding the egg yolk mixture over (not touching) the water in the large pan. Start whisking continuously.
- Now is a good time to whip out an instant-read thermometer. You don't want the mixture to go above 183°F (85°C) or the eggs will curdle. As the eggs start heating up, start slowly pouring in the butter while continuing to whisk constantly. After all of the butter is in, add a couple tablespoons of hot water to loosen up the sauce a bit, then add a pinch or two of salt and pepper. Keep the sauce in a warm spot but not on a burner. Have the fresh mint on hand.
- To make the sausage, turn on the broiler or light a charcoal or gas grill. In a bowl, combine the pork, lamb, salt, dill, garlic, Sriracha sauce, pepper, and cold water. Mix together well with your hands. Shape the mixture into small torpedo-shaped sausages about 2 inches (5 cm) long.
- Place the sausages on a rimmed baking sheet and slip the sheet under the broiler, or place on a grill rack. Cook, turning as needed, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until browned on all sides.
- Put the sausages on a platter and immediately turn to the paloise. Add in the fresh mint and stir well. Serve the sausages with the paloise-from a nice old sauce tray, if possible-with the watercress dressed with Apple Vinny on the side.
CLASSIC BEARNAISE AND PALOISE SAUCES
Thick, buttery, and aromatic with tarragon, Bearnaise sauce is a classic pairing with beef or salmon steaks, artichoke bottoms or poached eggs; its mint-flavored variant, much less well known, is splendid with lamb. Recipes for Bearnaise abound, but many of them have balance problems: Too many yolks, and it tastes like scrambled eggs instead of a butter sauce; too much vinegar, and it tastes sour; too little tarragon or pepper, and it just tastes dull. For the vinegar reduction, use a fragrant dried tarragon like Spice Island; in the finished sauce, sliced flat-leaf parsley can closely mimic fresh tarragon. Three ounces of butter per yolk, melted and clarified, makes the thickest sauce with the most buttery flavor, but the emulsion is somewhat fragile; if the sauce should start to separate, see Step 7.
Provided by R. L. Wallace
Categories Sauces
Time 35m
Yield 1-2 serving(s)
Number Of Ingredients 12
Steps:
- Put the cut-up butter in a 1-cup glass measure with a pouring spout, and microwave until completely melted and clear but not bubbling (or heat in a warm oven, 190 degrees F., about 25 minutes). Skim off any foam from the top, and cool until lukewarm but still liquid.
- Combine the liquids and seasonings (except the cayenne and fresh herbs) in a 3-cup, heavy-bottomed, non-reactive saucepan, and simmer over medium heat until the liquid reduces to 1 tablespoon (no farther). Strain the liquid into a cup, pressing hard to squeeze all the juices out of the shallots, then return it to the saucepan.
- Whisk in the yolk, and place over medium-low heat. Stir in 1/4 of the clarified butter, and continue whisking across the bottom and around the sides of the pan until the yolk-and-butter mixture thickens to a sour cream consistency. If the yolk is overcooked, it will start to scramble; if undercooked (as in "blender Bearnaise" recipes), it will taste raw.
- Dunk the pan briefly in cold water; then very slowly dribble in the rest of the butter off heat, whisking constantly, without including the milky liquid at the bottom. When all the butter is absorbed, the sauce should be the consistency of a medium-thick mayonnaise.
- Add the cayenne pepper, taste for seasoning, and stir in the herbs. To keep the sauce from congealing, set it in a pan of hot tap water, but the sooner it is served, the better.
- For Paloise sauce, omit the tarragon, and finish with 1/2 tablespoon finely shredded mint; do not add mint to the vinegar reduction (the cooking distorts its flavor).
- If the sauce overheats or the butter is added too fast, the oily fat can separate out. If that happens, during or after cooking, it is easy to fix: Put a teaspoon of water in a small bowl, add a spoonful of the separating sauce, and whisk them together until creamy; then gradually add the rest of the sauce, spoonful by spoonful, until the whole thing is reconstituted.
Nutrition Facts : Calories 683.7, Fat 73.9, SaturatedFat 45.5, Cholesterol 367.6, Sodium 165.9, Carbohydrate 3.9, Fiber 0.4, Sugar 0.2, Protein 4.5
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