Soup Doria Food
SOUP DORIA
When I worked in Gray Kunz's kitchens at Lespinasse, there was an honest-to-God Swiss princess living at the St. Regis Hotel. Her name was Princess Doria, and every night, she would phone down to the kitchen and tell us what she wanted to eat for dinner. In the beginning, Gray would cook for her himself: he was Swiss, she was Swiss, it was a whole Swiss thing going on. But after a while, he got tired of taking her calls, and the job devolved to me and the sous chefs. Every night, that phone would ring, and I would say, "Good evening, Princess," and she would tell me what she wanted to eat that night. Princess Doria wasn't into super-fancy creative cooking: her thing was refined-but-homey. Some- times, for example, it would be a roast _pintade_ for two: I would plate the breast for her, and the thighs for her cat. So I developed some dishes that were just for her. I named them after her: Salad Doria, Chicken Doria. And sometimes on cold winter nights, she would call down and say, "Andrew, I would like some Soup Doria tonight, please." Time passed. I left Lespinasse to travel and cook in France. When I got back to New York, I helped open Le Cirque 2000 in the Palace Hotel. We'd been up and running about two weeks when the kitchen phone rang by my station one night, right in the middle of the busiest part of service. I heard a familiar voice say, in French-accented tones, "Andrew?" Princess Doria on the line. She'd moved on to the Palace right behind me, and she would be pleased, she said, if I would send up some Soup Doria for her. This soup is just Princess Doria's style. It's really a _potage_-a French minestrone, a chunky winter vegetable soup. I like to sprinkle Parmesan cheese on top and serve it with some crusty, crunchy French bread.
Provided by Andrew Carmellini
Yield Serves 6 to 8
Number Of Ingredients 16
Steps:
- Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat.
- Add the bacon and let it render slowly in the olive oil, stirring every so often to keep it from sticking, for about 5 minutes, until it starts crisping up.
- Add the onions, leeks, and red pepper flakes. Turn the heat up to medium-high, mix the vegetables and the bacon together well, and let them cook for about 3 minutes, stirring every so often, until the onions and leeks have started to soften but the onions have not colored.
- Add the carrots, celery root, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, salt, pepper, chicken broth, and the herb packet. Mix everything together. Then turn the heat to high and let the soup cook at a low bubble for about half an hour, until the vegetables soften up (but before they get super-mushy).
- Add the kale, stir it into the soup, and cook it down for about 10 minutes, until it's soft and cooked all the way through. Pull out the herb packet.
- Serve the soup with some good bread on the side. I like to top each bowl with a drizzle of hazelnut or pumpkin-seed oil and a sprinkling of cheese.
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