SHORTCUT GUANCIALE
There is an edge of obsessiveness to carbonara - and I gave in to it completely by starting to make my own guanciale, the cured pig cheek central to most Italian versions of the dish. There's no real need to; it's available online, but I was inspired after eating a wonderful meal at Vetri Ristorante in Philadelphia, and buying a cookbook, "Rustic Italian Food," by its owner, Marc Vetri. He made it sound easy - and it is. It's also satisfying. Guanciale is generally cured for a week, then hung to dry for about three weeks, which is how I usually make it. A fireplace is perfect. But Mr. Vetri has a version that cures for only three days, then is baked. If you order raw cheeks, they need to be trimmed. You want to end up with a neat, flat slab, roughly an inch and a half thick. The key is to cut off the glands, down to the first level of meat, and all excess fat. Here is Mr. Vetri's recipe:
Provided by Ian Fisher
Categories project
Time 3h15m
Number Of Ingredients 8
Steps:
- Rinse pork jowl and pat dry. Combine other ingredients in a bowl.
- Rub the curing mix on the jowl, then place jowl in a gallon Ziploc bag with the cure evenly spread on top and bottom. Refrigerate for 3 days.
- Rinse the jowl and dry it. Roast at 275 degrees for 2 1/2 to 3 hours.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 187, UnsaturatedFat 6 grams, Carbohydrate 3 grams, Fat 11 grams, Fiber 0 grams, Protein 18 grams, SaturatedFat 4 grams, Sodium 273 milligrams, Sugar 2 grams
AMATRICIANA (GUANCIALE, TOMATO, AND PECORINO ROMANO)
Steps:
- Put the guanciale and oil in a saucepan. Turn the heat to medium and heat gently so the guanciale renders some fat and starts to brown. Taste a piece to assess how salty it is. Then, when it just begins to become crisp, add the chopped onion (if using) and sauté gently until transparent. Add the tomatoes and chile, then taste for salt (how much you need will depend on the guanciale).
- Finish cooking the sauce, covered, over low heat. You'll know it's done when the liquid has thickened somewhat and the fat shows on the surface, about 20 minutes.
- Make-ahead note: This much can be done earlier in the day, but this sauce is not customarily made in advance or kept, except casually as leftovers for the next day.
- Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons kosher salt, then add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente.
- Warm a serving bowl or platter in a low oven. If the oven is not practical, warm the bowl just before use with hot water, even a ladleful of the pasta cooking water.
- Drain the pasta and put it in the warmed serving bowl. Toss it first with the grated cheese, then with the sauce. Serve immediately.
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