RAMP SOUP
Steps:
- Trim roots from ramps and slip off outer skin on bupounds if loose. Cut green tops from ramps and coarsely chop enough greens to measure 3 cups (reserve remainder for another use). Thinly slice ramp bulbs, including pink stems.
- Cook ramp bulbs, onion, white pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add wine, then boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, until evaporated completely. Add broth and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until onions and ramps are very soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in ramp greens and boil 1 minute.
- Working in batches, purée soup in a blender until very smooth, about 1 minute per batch (use caution when blending hot liquids), then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof bowl, pressing hard on and then discarding solids. Return soup to cleaned pot and bring just to a boil. Whisk in cheese and butter until smooth. Season with salt.
WILD RAMPS AND PARMESAN SCRAMBLE
Our friend Gerry has a farm in upstate New York, in Delaware County, and it is a trove of little wildly growing goodies. Each spring, around the end of April through the end of May, little leafy wild leeks, called ramps, spring up (ahead of the rhubarb, ahead of the asparagus) in patches on the side of streamlets. These wild leeks taste amazingly good with eggs, though we often pickle the bulbs and use just the leaves for scrambled eggs. At our local farmers' market in Manhattan's Union Square, ramps are one of the first green things to fill the winter-barren tables. If you can't find ramps, leeks make a good substitute. Use one-quarter of a well-washed, chopped leek per serving. Also try substituting goat cheese for the Parmesan for a slightly different flavor. Serve with Skillet Hash Browns (page 211).
Yield serves 1
Number Of Ingredients 5
Steps:
- Wash the ramps very well under cold running water. Trim and chop them into 1- or 2-inch pieces. You should have about 1/2 cup of chopped ramps.
- Using a whisk or a fork, beat the eggs in a small bowl until frothy.
- Heat the butter in an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the ramps and sauté for 3 minutes, or until they begin to soften.
- Reduce the heat under the pan to low. Pour the eggs into the pan. Cook, constantly pushing the eggs toward the center of the pan with a rubber spatula, until the eggs begin to thicken. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper. Continue to cook and stir the eggs over low heat for another minute, or until nearly set but still soft and creamy. Spoon the eggs onto a serving plate and serve immediately.
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