Mark Bittmans Mushroom Stock Food

MUSHROOM STOCK

Steps:

• Heat the oil in a large stockpot or kettle set over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, dried porcini, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns and 14 cups of water and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, for 2 hours.
• Pour the stock through a fine-mesh strainer. Press down on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Stir in the soy sauce. Use as a base for soups and stews, or add more soy or tamari to taste and serve as a broth.

WILD MUSHROOM STOCK

Steps:

• Place an 8-quart or (preferably) larger casserole or stockpot over high heat, add the olive oil and heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they soften and release their liquid. Continue to cook until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms begin to brown; it may take about 45 minutes.
• Add the garlic and cook until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the onions and celery and reduce the heat to medium. Sauté until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes.
• Add the parsley, thyme and black peppercorns and about 7 quarts of water (should be just enough to cover). Simmer for 45 minutes and strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl. Cool, cover and refrigerate; may be frozen for up to 3 months.

BITTMAN'S BROCCOLI STIR-FRY WITH CHICKEN & MUSHROOMS

Steps:

• Put a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it's hot, add half the oil, swirl it around, and immediately add half the garlic and ginger. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add the broccoli, mushrooms and all but a sprinkling of the scallions. Raise heat to high, and cook, stirring, until mushrooms release their water and broccoli is bright green and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
• Sprinkle with salt; add 1 cup water. Stir and cook until almost all liquid evaporates and broccoli is almost tender, another minute or two more, then transfer everything to a plate.
• Turn heat to medium, add remaining oil, then remaining garlic and ginger. Stir, then add chicken and turn heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until chicken has lost its pink color, three to five minutes.
• Turn heat to medium. Return broccoli, mushrooms and juices to the pan, and stir. Add soy sauce, sprinkle with more salt and some pepper; add a little more water if mixture is dry. Raise heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced slightly and you've scraped up all the bits of chicken. Taste and adjust seasoning, garnish with remaining scallion and serve.
• VARIATIONS: (1) Use thinly sliced beef or cubed tofu or another protein instead of chicken. (2) Use cabbage, cauliflower, asparagus, green beans, snow peas, carrots or spinach in place of either the broccoli or the mushrooms or both. Or use other mushrooms. (3) Southeast Asian: Use fish sauce instead of soy sauce and finish with a squeeze of lime. (4) Mediterranean: Use olive oil, skip the ginger, use onion instead of scallion, and substitute 1 T chopped rosemary or thyme. (5) Indian: Use coconut milk instead of water and 1 tablespoon curry powder instead of soy sauce.

MUSHROOM SOUP

Steps:

• Soak the dried mushrooms in 5 cups very hot water until soft, anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes. When they are tender, remove mushrooms from the soaking liquid with a slotted spoon, reserving the liquid; slice or chop if the pieces are large.
• Meanwhile, put the butter in a large pot that can later be covered over medium heat. When it melts, add the herb, onions and garlic and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to medium high, and add the fresh mushrooms; add the soaked mushrooms when they're ready. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook until the mushrooms have given off their liquid and begun to brown, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Add the sherry or Madeira to the pot and cook, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom as the liquor starts to bubble. Add the stock or soaking liquid and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a steady simmer and cook, covered, until flavors have melded, about 15 minutes.
• Discard the herb. Reduce the heat to low, and purée the liquid with a hand-held mixer to desired consistency. (I like it half-puréed.) Add the cream if you're using it; stir to combine and let simmer for a few minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning; garnish with parsley and serve.

CREAMY ONE-POT PASTA WITH CHICKEN AND MUSHROOMS

Steps:

• Put 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When hot, add shallot, garlic and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms soften and begin to brown on edges, about 10 minutes. Add pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with oil, 2 to 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper, then wine. Stir and let liquid bubble away.
• Ladle stock into skillet 1/2 cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so. When liquid is just about evaporated, add more. Mixture should be neither soupy nor dry. Keep heat at medium and stir frequently.
• Begin tasting pasta 10 minutes after you add it; you want it to be tender but with a tiny bit of crunch. When pasta is about 3 to 4 minutes away from being done, add chicken and stir to combine. Continue to cook until chicken is done - it will be white on inside when cut - and pasta is how you like it. Taste, adjust seasoning, garnish with parsley and Parmesan if using, and serve.

ITALIAN-STYLE RUSTIC TOMATO STOCK

Steps:

• Sauté 1 tablespoon minced garlic and 2 teaspoons minced anchovies in olive oil until fragrant.
• Add 3 cups crushed canned tomatoes, 3 cups water and a sprig of thyme, rosemary or basil (or a combination) if you like.
• Bring to a boil, simmer, then fish out the herbs if you used them.

MARK BITTMAN'S MUSHROOM STOCK

Steps:

• Toss a pound of trimmed button mushrooms and a few dried porcini into 6 cups water. It need not be more complicated than this, but adding some onion, carrot or celery makes it even better.
• Bring to a boil, and simmer.
• Strain the mushrooms out if you like, but make sure to use them for something.