A Country Syllabub Food

TURKISH DELIGHT SYLLABUB

Steps:

• Combine the orange-flavored liqueur, lemon juice and sugar in a large bowl (I use the bowl of my freestanding mixer) and stir to dissolve the sugar, or as good as. Slowly stir in the cream then get whisking. As I said, I use my freestanding mixer to this, but if you haven't got one, don't worry - but I would then advise a handheld electric mixer. This takes ages to thicken and doing it by hand will drive you demented with tedium and impatience. Or it would me.
• When the cream's fairly thick, but still not thick enough to hold its shape, dribble with the flower waters and then keep whisking until you have a cream mixture that's light and airy but able to form soft peaks. I always think of syllabub as occupying some notional territory between solid and liquid; you're aiming, as you whisk, for what Jane Grigson called "bulky whiteness." Whatever: better slightly too runny than slightly too thick, so proceed carefully, but don't get anxious about it.
• Spoon the syllabub in airy dollops into small glasses, letting the mixture billow up above the rim of the glass, and scatter finely chopped pistachios on top. In my How to Eat cookbook, there's a recipe for pistachio crescents that would be fabulous dunked into and eaten with this. But only if you feel like it: the cool, fool-like smoothness of this is perfect as it is.

A COUNTRY SYLLABUB

Steps:

• Put all ingredients in blender and blend until frothy.
• Pour into parfait or Sherry glasses and let stand 2 or 3 hours at room temperature.

AN EVERLASTING SYLLABUB

Steps:

• Grate the lemon rind finely, squeeze the juice and mix both with the white wine, Madeira and sugar.
• Add nutmeg and beat in the heavy cream gradually with an electric beater or wire whisk. Beat until the cream forms soft peaks, but don't overbeat or the cream will become too dense.
• Spoon the mixture into parfait or Sherry glasses and chill or serve at room temperature. If you want the cream and liquor to separate, make syllabub several hours ahead.
• When ready to serve, garnish each glass with a sprig of rosemary, mint, lavender or a twist of lemon.

LEMON SYLLABUB

Steps:

• Whip the cream and sugar in a chilled bowl, until the cream begins to thicken. Gradually whip in the white wine, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Continue to whip until light and fluffy, but not grainy. Cover the mixture and chill until serving time.
• Serve in chilled parfait glasses, garnished with a dash of nutmeg, a sprig of mint, and a slice of lemon. Syllabub should be eaten with a small spoon, and savored.