Jamie Oliver Nonna Food

POTATO GNOCCHI

Steps:

• Use potatoes of a fairly even size, as you're going to cook them whole. Cook in a large pan of boiling salted water for 20 to 25 minutes, or until tender.
• Drain and leave until cool enough to handle, then remove the skins.
• Mash the potatoes using a potato ricer or masher on to a large clean board.
• Sprinkle over the flour, finely grate over half the nutmeg, season well with sea salt and black pepper, then scrunch and push the mixture together with clean hands. Depending on the potatoes, you may need to add a little more flour - use your common sense.
• Knead on a flour-dusted surface for a few minutes until pliable, then divide into 4 equal pieces and roll each into a sausage about 2cm thick.
• Slice into 3cm lengths - this is your basic gnocchi. Now you can gently roll each piece down a butter pat, the back of a fork or a fine grater to add grooves, which will help your sauce to stick, or simply roll into balls.
• Nonna Teresa cooked her gnocchi 2 portions at a time, as it's so quick, and it also means they're less likely to break up. Cook in a pan of boiling salted water for 2 to 3 minutes - as soon as they come up to the surface they're ready.
• Remove with a slotted spoon and toss with melted butter and finely grated Parmesan, my Hero tomato sauce (or leftover sauce from a stew, which you can see in the picture), then finely grate over a little Parmesan, to serve. I also like to add a little dollop of pesto - homemade or jarred, it's up to you.

BEAUTIFUL ZUCCHINI

Steps:

• Place a large frying pan on a high heat with 1 tablespoon of oil. Peel and lightly squash the garlic clove and add to the pan, moving it around to perfume the oil. Slice the guanciale into rough 1-centimeter (3/8-inch) chunks and add to the pan to let the fat render out. Trim the zucchini, halve lengthways, then chop into 2-centimeter (3/4-inch) chunks. Stir into the pan, then season with a little sea salt and a good pinch of black pepper. Halve or quarter the tomatoes, deseed, and add to the pan. Pick, roughly chop and add the parsley leaves.
• Reduce the heat to medium and cook for about 15 minutes, or until softened, stirring occasionally. This gives you a really fresh, delicious zucchini dish full of life, just how Nonna Maria made it. Or you can turn the heat down lower and cook it for 40 minutes, so you get a deeper, sweeter, frumpier result, adding a splash of water to loosen, if needed. Both ways are delicious, and celebrate zucchini at their very best. Just before serving, taste and check you've got the seasoning spot on.

STUFFED BRAISED SQUID

Steps:

• Place half the capers in a bowl with the breadcrumbs, egg, 1 tablespoon of oil and 2 tablespoons of water. Finely grate in the pecorino, peel the garlic, finely chop with the parsley (stalks and all), then scrunch it all together.
• Peel and finely slice the onion and place in a casserole pan on a medium heat with 2 tablespoons of oil, stirring occasionally. Now, a great nonna trick: squeeze the tomatoes while submerged in a bowl of water to remove the seeds (and prevent them going everywhere!). Add the tomatoes to the pan with the passata. Simmer on a low heat while you stuff the squid.
• Keeping the tentacles to one side, just over half-fill each squid tube with the breadcrumb mixture, pushing it right down into the tube but being mindful not to pack it too tightly. Use a cocktail stick or toothpick to seal or, like Franchina learnt from her grandparents, use a needle and thread. Stir the remaining capers into the sauce, then add the stuffed squid and tentacles. Simmer on a low heat for 25 to 30 minutes, or until tender.
• Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted water according to the packet instructions. Use tongs to move the squid pieces to a board. Removing the sticks or thread, slice the tubes to reveal the filling, then arrange on a platter, spoon over a little sauce and pick over the basil. Drain the pasta, reserving a mugful of starchy cooking water, then toss with the remaining sauce, loosening with a splash of cooking water, if needed. Serve with a grating of pecorino, alongside that tasty braised squid.

ROLLED CASSATA

Steps:

• Preheat the oven to 180 degrees C (350 degrees F)/gas 4.
• For the sponge, whisk the eggs and sugar with an electric mixer, or by hand, until pale, fluffy and at least doubled in size. Sift in the flour, add the vanilla paste, then slowly fold through. Grease a 26-by-36-centimeter (10-by-14-inch) baking tray with butter, then line it with parchment paper and grease that, too. Spoon the batter into the tray and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until cooked through.
• Meanwhile, blitz the pistachios in a food processor until fine. Break in the marzipan and blitz until it forms a dough, adding a splash of water to combine, if needed.
• Take the sponge out of the oven and confidently flip it out on to a clean tea towel. Peel off the parchment paper, place it back on top, then roll up while the sponge is still warm and flexible. Leave to cool for around 20 minutes.
• For the filling, whiz the ricotta with the sugar in a food processor until smooth. Toast the hazelnuts in a frying pan until golden, then finely chop with the candied fruit, pistachios and chocolate. Mix into the ricotta.
• Roll out most of the marzipan on a large sheet of parchment paper to 26 by 46 centimeters (10 by 18 inches), and 2 millimeters (1/16 inch) thick. Spread over the jam, unroll the sponge on top, drizzle over the Vin Santo and spread over the ricotta. Line up the cherries along the side nearest you, then, using the paper to help you, roll it up, pressing lightly to seal. Trim the ends, then roll out the remaining marzipan and stamp out shapes to decorate the top. Serve it after 30 minutes, chilling in the fridge, or freeze for another day. If frozen, defrost in the fridge for 3 hours before serving. Dust with confectioners' sugar to finish.