Nytimes Midnight Pasta Food

HOW TO MAKE PASTA

Steps:

• Invest in a pasta roller, whether a hand-cranked model or a stand mixer attachment. It doesn't have to be fancy - even an inexpensive hand-cranked model will save you time and frustration. If you prefer to roll pasta by hand, you'll need a long rolling pin (preferably French-style) and a large wooden cutting board or a clean, smooth countertop.It's worth seeking out 00 flour from Italy to make your pasta dough. Milled far more finely than American flour, it yields a particularly smooth, satiny pasta. Use it as you would all-purpose.A fluted pasta wheel is also useful, both for cutting ravioli and other stuffed shapes, and for creating fluted edges on farfalle or pappardelle.
• Lighter than dry pasta and deeply flavorful, fresh pasta isn't something to master in one go, but the end result is truly worthwhile. This particular recipe for an egg dough is vastly versatile. It can take on flavors from whole grain flours, saffron, herbs, or sautéed greens, or can be shaped into a number of different styles. And, with time and practice, what may have started as a cooking project may end up being the foundation for weeknight meals to come.
• Once you have a handle on the basic recipe, you can vary the flour or add flavorings and pair them with sauces that will make their flavors stand out. Try whole grain noodles with a hearty meat sauce, saffron fettuccine with shrimp and basil, green ravioli with a ricotta filling and herbed noodles with butter and Parmesan.Clockwise from bottom left, herbed pappardelle, whole grain fettuccine, saffron farfalle, and green ravioli.For whole grain pasta, substitute 1 cup sifted whole wheat, spelt or farro flour for 1 cup of the 00 or all-purpose flour. Add extra egg yolks or water as needed, and allow dough to rest for 1 hour before rolling.To make saffron pasta, place a large pinch of saffron threads and a pinch of salt into a mortar and pestle. Grind finely, then add 1 tablespoon boiling water to make saffron tea. Allow tea to cool, then whisk into the eggs. Rinse the remaining saffron out of the mortar and pestle with another tablespoon of cool water and whisk into the eggs. Add to the flour in the main recipe and proceed from there.To make green pasta, steam or sauté 6 ounces (about 6 cups) baby spinach until just wilted. Remove from pan and spread out in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. When cool, squeeze the leaves thoroughly, a palmful at a time, then chop roughly. Purée in a blender with 2 eggs and 1 egg yolk, then add egg mixture to flour in the main recipe.For an herbed pasta, stir in ½ cup finely chopped parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon or basil in any combination to the eggs before adding to the flour.
• The rolling process can be meditative, but it also requires your attention to ensure the dough doesn't tear, warp or stick to itself. A little patience and awareness will help you turn out smooth, delicate sheets.Making pasta from scratch isn't particularly difficult if you're using a roller, but it can be time-consuming at first. Leave yourself plenty of time for resting, rolling and shaping the pasta. Clear off your counters to give yourself ample work space. If you've never made pasta, take it on as a weekend cooking project rather than a quick weeknight meal.Working with pasta requires all of your senses. You'll quickly learn that every batch is different, depending on everything from humidity and weather to the type of flour and size of your eggs. If pasta threatens to stick, dust both the pasta and the work surface with flour. If it's too dry, add another yolk. Your good judgment is as important for success as the recipe.And finally, though it can be hypnotizing, resist the urge to watch the pasta as it comes out of the rollers. Instead, watch as it enters the machine, using one hand to ensure it goes in straight and doesn't ripple or overlap onto itself.Anyone can roll pasta by hand, but it can be a challenge for beginners. Think of it as an advanced technique: Once you've developed a sense for working with pasta dough, you'll have a much better understanding of how it will respond to the rolling pin, how quickly it will dry out and how much flour is needed to keep the dough from sticking without overdoing it.Before you begin rolling, line three baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly dust with semolina flour. Set aside.Cut off a quarter of the dough. Rewrap the remaining dough and set aside. Place the portioned-off dough onto a lightly floured large wooden or marble board or countertop. Pushing out from the center with the heel of your hand, flatten the dough into a circle. Use a long rolling pin to roll the dough out from the center, without going all the way over the edge. Continue rolling outward from the center, moving the dough a quarter-turn after each roll to maintain a circular shape. If the dough starts to stick, lightly dust it with flour and keep working quickly to prevent the dough from drying out.When the pasta sheet is smooth and round, lay the rolling pin across the top of the circle from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock. Wrap the shorter end of the dough circle around the pin and roll it a single turn toward yourself to create a tube of pasta around the pin. You'll be working with only about a quarter of the sheet at a time. Rocking the pin back and forth, use your hands to pull the two edges of the dough on the pin away from each other, stretching out the sheet until it's about the length of the rolling pin. Continue working quickly to keep the dough from drying out. If necessary, repeat until the whole sheet is smooth and translucent.Cut the pasta into two or three sheets. Dust the sheets lightly with semolina flour to keep them from sticking. Stack dusted sheets on the prepared baking sheets and cover with a clean, lightly dampened kitchen towel. Repeat with remaining dough.
• Basic pasta dough presents many possibilities. You could cut it into tried-and-true noodles; trim it into sheets for a savory lasagna or rich, satisfying cannelloni; form farfalle (bow ties); or use it as a base for ravioli and tortellini. Mastering one style is impressive, but commanding all four - that's the stuff of advanced home cooks.FOR NOODLESTo cut noodles with a pasta roller, run the pasta sheets, one at a time, through the cutting attachment, then toss with semolina flour. Gently fluff and separate noodles and pile into nests of single portions (about 3 ounces). Place on baking sheets lined with parchment paper and dusted with semolina, and cover until ready to use.To hand-cut noodles, stack four sheets of pasta lightly dusted with semolina flour, then loosely roll into thirds lengthwise (like folding a letter). Cut with a sharp knife (in ½-inch increments for tagliatelle or fettuccine and into ¾-inch increments for pappardelle), continuing until all the dough is used. Gently fluff and separate noodles and pile onto prepared baking sheets into nests of single portions (about 3 ounces). Cover until ready to use. Both methods are shown in the video above.For hand-torn noodles, pick up a single sheet of rolled pasta. Pinching about ½ inch at the corner with your thumb and forefinger, tear lengthwise down the sheet. Repeat, aiming for noodles of a consistent width. Toss with semolina flour. Gently fluff and separate noodles and pile onto prepared baking sheets into nests of single portions (about 3 ounces). Cover until ready to use.To make fluted pappardelle, use a ravioli cutter instead of a knife to cut noodles, one sheet at a time.FOR LASAGNACut sheets of dough into 6-by-10-inch pieces to use for lasagna or 4-by-4 inch pieces to make fazzoletti (pasta handkerchiefs traditionally served with basil pesto).FOR CANNELLONICut the sheets into 4-by-6-inch pieces, then boil in salted water, drain and pat dry. Lay out the cooked pieces and spread ¼ cup ricotta filling - or combined filling of ricotta and chard (for a recipe, see the fillings chapter below) - onto each, along the short side. Roll the filled sheets into cylinders. In an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish, spoon ¾ cup tomato sauce, and carefully lay the cannelloni onto the sauce in a single layer. Drizzle with ½ cup tomato sauce, ½ cup heavy cream and ½ cup finely grated Parmesan. Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees until brown and bubbly, about 35 minutes.To form farfalle, or bow ties, cut the sheets of pasta into 1 ½-inch-wide strips using a knife. Then use a fluted ravioli cutter to cut each strip into 2-inch-long rectangles. Place your index finger in the center of the rectangle, then use your thumb and middle finger to pull the top and bottom edges in toward the center. Remove your index finger and pinch the edges until they stick together. If the pasta isn't wet enough to stick to itself, dip your fingers in a little water and try again. Place farfalle in a single layer on remaining baking sheets lined with parchment paper and dusted with semolina, and cover until ready to use.Place a 6-by-14-inch sheet of pasta on your work space and dust off any excess flour. Fold the sheet in half lengthwise to create a crease and unfold. A quarter-inch below the crease, spoon rounded tablespoonfuls of filling, about an inch apart from one another. Moisten the entire strip very lightly with a spray bottle or damp pastry brush.Lift the top edge of the pasta sheet and fold it to meet the bottom edge, letting it drape loosely over the filling. Starting at one end with dry fingers, squeeze out air bubbles by pressing the dough around the filling (but don't press on the filling itself). Press on the edges of the pasta to seal completely. Using a fluted pasta cutter, trim the pasta edges, making sure not to cut the folded edge, then cut between the mounds of filling to form the ravioli.Toss the ravioli lightly with semolina flour, then spread in a single layer on the second prepared baking sheet. Cover with a piece of parchment paper.Repeat with remaining pasta. You should be able to yield about 80 or 90 ravioli from the standard pasta dough recipe.Working one 6-by-14-inch sheet at a time, cut the pasta into 2 ½-inch squares, or use a 2 ½-inch biscuit cutter to cut rounds. As you cut, stack and store the pieces under a lightly dampened dish towel or in a plastic bag to keep them from drying out.On a clean work counter, lay out about 15 pasta rounds or squares at a time. Spoon rounded teaspoonfuls of filling onto the pasta, just off center. Use a spray bottle or wet pastry brush to lightly dampen the edges of the pasta. Pick up the pasta pieces one at a time and fold in half over the filling, squeezing out air bubbles as you seal each tortellino, pressing the dough around the filling with dry fingers. If you're working with circles, you'll be left with a half-moon shape. If using squares, fold corner to corner to form a triangle. Holding a tortellino in one hand, use the index finger of your other to gently poke an indent into the center of its base (the bottom of the filling). Folding the tortellino around the indent, draw both of its bottom corners together as if forming a fortune cookie. Overlap the corners and press to seal them together. Toss lightly with semolina flour, then spread the pieces in a single layer on the second prepared baking sheet. Cover with a piece of parchment paper. Repeat with remaining pasta. You should be able to yield about 80 or 90 tortellini from the standard pasta dough recipe.
• If you've chosen to make a filled pasta, you'll want to make your filling while the dough rests. And there are so many ways to fill your shapes. Whatever you choose - whether greens, cheese, meat or vegetable - you'll need about 2 ¼ cups for a single batch of ravioli (and a little less for tortellini).For a basic ricotta filling, use the freshest whole-milk ricotta you can find. If it resembles cottage cheese in consistency, drain it in a sieve lined with cheesecloth overnight to keep it from being too wet.In a medium bowl, whip together 2 cups (16 ounces) whole-milk ricotta, 1 ½ cups finely grated Parmesan cheese, freshly ground black pepper, a generous pinch of salt and 3 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley, chives or basil (optional). Taste and adjust salt as needed. Cover and refrigerate until using.For a mushroom-based filling, set a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. When it shimmers, add 4 diced shallots and a pinch of salt. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 9 minutes, until shallots are tender and golden brown. Scrape shallots into a small bowl and set aside.Wipe out the pan and return to medium heat. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil. When it shimmers, add 1 pound of trimmed, rinsed and quartered cremini or chanterelle mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all the water evaporates and the mushrooms are tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes.Push the mushrooms to the side of the pan, and in the clearing, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 3 minced cloves of garlic. Allow them to gently sizzle until they release an aroma, about 20 seconds. Before the garlic has a chance to start browning, stir the garlic into the mushrooms and turn off the heat.Scrape the mushrooms into the bowl of a food processor. Add 1 ½ cups grated pecorino, 1 tablespoon very finely chopped thyme and 2 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley. Pulse to combine, then taste and adjust salt as needed. Continue pulsing, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, until the mushrooms are all finely chopped and no larger than a sunflower seed.Spoon the mixture into a bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. Add 3 tablespoons créme fraîche and stir to combine. Taste and adjust salt if needed. Cover and refrigerate until using.For a meat-based filling, add 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil to a large cast-iron pan set over medium-high heat. Crumble in ½ pound ground beef and ½ pound ground pork and reduce heat to medium. Using the edge of a metal spoon, break up clumps of meat as they form, stirring regularly. Once the meat is evenly broken up, let it continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all of the water has cooked off and it starts to sizzle, about 8 minutes. (You can also use cooked short ribs, from about 1 ½ pounds, stripped of bones and gristle, and shredded in a food processor. You should have 12 ounces of meat left over. Just proceed from here to the next step.) As the meat begins to brown, clear a spot in the center of the pan and add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 diced cloves of garlic. Cook the garlic until it starts to release an aroma, about 20 seconds, then stir it into the meat and cook another 30 seconds or so. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.In the bowl of a food processor, combine meat mixture, 2 ounces finely diced mortadella, ¼ cup freshly ground Parmesan, 3 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley, ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg, a large pinch ground cloves, 1 teaspoon salt and freshly ground pepper. Pulse to combine, then taste and adjust salt and pepper as needed. Add 2 eggs and pulse, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, until the mixture is smooth and tacky. Cover and refrigerate the mixture until you're ready to use.For a Swiss chard-based filling, trim the woody ends from 2 large bunches Swiss chard (leaves and stems separated). Dice the stems into ½-inch pieces.Set a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. When it shimmers, add 1 finely diced yellow onion, chard stems and a pinch of salt. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12 to 14 minutes, until onions are tender and lightly golden. In the meantime, slice the chard leaves into 1-inch pieces.Add the chard to the onions and cook, using tongs to turn the chard until it wilts. Season with salt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until the chard is tender and sweet. Remove pan from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.Scrape chard into the bowl of a food processor and add ½ cup whole-milk ricotta, ½ cup finely grated Parmesan and ⅛ teaspoon finely grated nutmeg. Pulse to combine, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, until the chard is evenly, finely chopped. Taste and adjust salt as needed. Cover and refrigerate until using.
• You've made your pasta. It's time to cook and eat it. A few tricks, like adding the right amount of salt, preheating your sauce and deploying pasta water judiciously, will yield the best plate of tagliatelle or ravioli you've ever cooked.Unlike dried pasta, which should never be cooked past al dente, fresh pasta must be cooked through, but just barely. At first, the only way to know when the pasta is done is to taste it, so stand by the pot, tongs in hand, and taste repeatedly.Eventually, you'll learn to tell when the pasta is ready by looking at how it droops. Fresh pasta cooks quickly, often in 3 or 4 minutes. Have your sauce warm and ready before you drop the pasta into the pot. Cooked pasta should always be tossed with warm sauce - with the exception of pesto, which is raw - to ensure it gets coated properly. Cook pasta in plenty of heavily salted, boiling water. For four servings, use at least 5 quarts of water seasoned with ½ cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt or 6 tablespoons fine sea salt. Don't worry too much about how much salt it takes to season the water properly: Most of it will go down the drain. You just need to create a salty cooking environment that will season the pasta in the few minutes it spends in the pot.Bring the water to a rolling boil before adding the pasta. Otherwise, it may pile at the bottom of the pot and stick to itself. If cooking noodles, stir them with tongs or a wooden spoon after about a minute to encourage them to separate.Pasta cooking water, full of salt and starch, is a precious gift. It'll season and thicken sauces and help them cling to the pasta. If draining pasta in a colander, sneak out a cup or two before taking the pot to the sink. Instead of draining delicate ravioli and tortellini into a colander, use a skimmer, spider or slotted spoon to pull them out of the pot and set them gently into a waiting pan of warm sauce.To refrigerate: Store fresh pasta in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out. Refrigerate for up to one night.To freeze: Store fresh pasta in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Freeze until rock hard and transfer to a freezer bag. If freezing noodles, divide them into about 3-ounce nests before freezing. To cook, drop frozen pasta into salted boiling water and cook for 4 to 7 minutes.
• Fresh pasta is so flavorful and tender that just a drizzle of good olive oil and some freshly grated Parmesan will make it shine. But if you're in the mood for something more, try one of these classic accompaniments. (All will yield enough sauce for 4 servings of noodles or 6 to 8 servings of tortellini or ravioli.)For a simple tomato sauce, pour a 28-ounce can of peeled Roma or San Marzano tomatoes and its juices into a medium bowl and crush them with your hands. Pour ¼ cup water into the can, swirl and add to tomatoes.Set a small Dutch oven or saucepan over medium-high heat and add 3 tablespoons olive oil. When it shimmers, add 1 diced yellow onion and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and golden brown, about 15 minutes.Move onions to the edges of the pot and add 1 tablespoon olive oil in the clearing. Add 2 sliced garlic cloves, and allow them to gently sizzle until they release an aroma, about 20 seconds. Before the garlic has a chance to start browning, stir it into the onions and add tomatoes.Season with salt and 1 teaspoon dried oregano or 12 basil leaves, torn into large pieces, and bring to a hard simmer. Stir, then reduce heat to low and cover pot (to prevent splattering). Cook, stirring occasionally, for 40 minutes or until raw tomato taste is gone.Remove from heat and stir in ¼ cup olive oil. Pass sauce through a food mill or use a stick blender to purée. Taste and adjust salt as needed.For a simple butter sauce with Parmesan and black pepper, set a frying pan with curved edges over medium-high heat and add 3 tablespoons of pasta cooking water, plus more as needed (the starch in the pasta water will help the emulsion stay together).Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low and add 8 tablespoons of butter, cut into 1 tablespoon-sized pieces, a piece or two at a time while continuously swirling the pan.Keep swirling the pan until the butter melts and the sauce begins to thicken. Remove from heat and add ¼ cup (1 ounce) finely grated Parmesan, freshly ground black pepper and salt. Swirl to combine, then taste and adjust salt as needed.If the sauce continues to thicken, add more pasta cooking water, a half-teaspoon at a time, and continue to swirl.Use immediately, or keep in a warm spot for a few minutes, if needed. If the sauce starts to separate, add a little more water, heat it gently and continue to swirl.This yields enough sauce for 4 servings of noodles or 6 to 8 servings of ravioli or tortellini.To pair your pasta with a sauce of parsley, garlic and red pepper flakes, set a large frying pan over medium heat and add 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 3 minced garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring until the garlic threatens to turn golden, about 1 minute.Just before the garlic begins to brown, add 1 cup pasta cooking water and increase heat to medium-high. Let the sauce simmer until it reduces by about a third.Add just-cooked, drained pasta to the pan and toss. Add ¼ cup very finely chopped parsley and continue cooking over medium heat for 1 minute, tossing continuously with tongs. If the pasta looks dry, add a little more pasta water. It should be slightly wetter than you are comfortable with, because the pasta will continue to absorb sauce even after you pull it from the heat. Taste and adjust salt as needed.Remove from heat and serve immediately, with freshly grated Parmesan.To pair your pasta with a spicy braised broccoli rabe with ricotta salata, trim woody ends from 1 pound (about 1 bunch) broccoli rabe and discard. Slice the stems and leaves into ½-inch pieces. Set a large frying pan over medium-high heat, and add 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. When it shimmers, add 1 finely diced yellow onion and a pinch of salt. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12 to 14 minutes, until onions are tender and lightly golden. Add broccoli rabe, ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, a generous pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons water. Use tongs to turn greens until evenly wilted. Cook, stirring occasionally, until water cooks away and broccoli rabe is tender, sweet, and starting to brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Move broccoli rabe to the edges of the pot, and add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add 3 cloves minced garlic and allow it to gently sizzle until it releases an aroma, about 20 seconds. Before the garlic has a chance to start browning, stir it into the greens. Add ¼ cup pasta cooking water and just-cooked, drained pasta and toss. Continue cooking over medium heat for 1 minute, tossing continuously with tongs. If the pasta looks dry, add a little more pasta water. It should be slightly wetter than you are comfortable with, because the pasta will continue to absorb sauce even after you pull it from the heat. Taste and adjust salt as needed. Serve immediately, with 1 cup (about 2 ounces) freshly grated ricotta salata.

MIDNIGHT PASTA WITH ROASTED GARLIC, OLIVE OIL AND CHILE

Steps:

• Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut off the top 1/4 inch of the head of garlic to expose the top of the cloves, then place on a piece of foil, cut-side up. Sprinkle exposed cloves with salt, then drizzle with 1 teaspoon oil. Wrap the garlic in the foil and roast until soft and golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes.
• When you're ready to make the pasta, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Finely chop the parsley leaves. Add pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package instructions until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta.
• While the pasta cooks, in a large Dutch oven or skillet, heat the remaining 1/2 cup oil over medium heat. Squeeze the roasted garlic cloves into the oil and cook, breaking them up with your spoon, until very fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the red-pepper flakes and a few generous grinds of pepper. Remove the pan from the heat to infuse the oil while the pasta finishes cooking.
• When the pasta's done, heat the garlic oil over medium, then add the cooked pasta, 1/2 cup reserved pasta water and the parsley, and simmer, tossing constantly and adding more pasta water as needed, until the pasta is glossed with sauce.
• Serve with more red-pepper flakes, black pepper and Parmesan.