WILD BOAR RAGù
In 2011, Jeff Gordinier wrote about Gradisca, in the West Village, where the owner Massimo Galeano wanted to serve the dishes of his Bolognese childhood. So he brought in his mother, Caterina Schenardi. This recipe is adapted from her and Daniele Boldrini, who grew up in Bologna. Ms. Schenardi is especially particular about the flour and egg in her tagliatelle, but here you can just use a store-bought version to go alongside, or use a noodle of your preference.
Provided by Jeff Gordinier
Categories dinner, one pot, pastas, main course
Time 3h30m
Yield 4 first-course servings
Number Of Ingredients 11
Steps:
- The night before making the ragù place the meat in a bowl with the rosemary, peppercorns, garlic and enough wine to cover. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
- Discard the rosemary and garlic. Drain the meat in a strainer set over a bowl, reserving the wine. In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering, and add the carrot, celery and onion. Sauté until softened, 3 to 5 minutes.
- Add the meat and cook, stirring frequently, until all the liquid released by the meat has evaporated and the meat is browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the reserved wine and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is dry, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes, breaking them up with a spoon. Add 1 cup water, reduce heat to very low, and cook, partly covered, at a low simmer for 1 hour.
- Add vegetable stock and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to break apart, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours. Remove from heat and, using a whisk or spoon, break the meat into very fine shreds. Serve, if desired, over tagliatelle or other pasta.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 354, UnsaturatedFat 11 grams, Carbohydrate 9 grams, Fat 14 grams, Fiber 2 grams, Protein 26 grams, SaturatedFat 3 grams, Sodium 105 milligrams, Sugar 4 grams
PAPPARDELLE WITH WILD BOAR RAGU (PAPPARDELLE AL RAGU DI CINGHIALE)
Steps:
- Heat the oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Season the meat with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Once the meat is browned, add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic. Reduce the heat and cook until the moisture is gone. Add the tomato paste and flour. Add the red wine and herbs. Cover and cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally. The sauce is done when the meat is fork tender.
- Remove the meat from the sauce and set aside. Strain the sauce, blend, and return to the pan. Pull the meat apart and add back to the blended sauce.
- Serve over pasta.
MALTAGLIATI WITH WILD BOAR RAGù
Steps:
- To make the ragù, cut the meat into 1/2-inch cubes. Place the meat in a nonreactive baking dish, season it with the salt and pepper, and toss to coat the meat all over with the seasonings. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
- Combine the Soffritto, olive oil, anchovies, and rosemary in a large saucepan over low heat and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to soften the rosemary and meld the flavors. Increase the heat to medium high. Move the vegetables to create a bare spot in the pan, add the tomato paste to that spot, and cook for 1 minute, stirring, to caramelize the tomato paste slightly. Add the wine, increase the heat to high, and boil the wine until the pan is almost dry, about 15 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, 2 cups of the chicken stock, and the red pepper flakes, and bring the sauce to a simmer. Add the meat, return the sauce to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and simmer the ragù, adding more chicken stock from time to time to keep the ragù from getting too thick or sticking to the bottom of the pan, until the meat is tender, about 4 hours. To test for doneness, put a cube of meat on a plate. If you can smash it easily with the back of the spoon, it's done; otherwise, continue cooking. When the ragù is done, turn off the heat and let it rest for about 10 minutes.
- Ladle 1 cup of the ragù into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade or the jar of a blender. Pulse several times to chop the meat but not quite purée it. Return the chopped meat to the pan and stir to combine. If necessary, return the pot to medium heat and cook the ragù until the sauce is thick. Use ragù or allow it to cool to room temperature, transfer it to an airtight container, and refrigerate for up to three days; freeze it for as long as three months. Warm the ragù over medium heat before serving, adding enough water to loosen it to a saucelike consistency.
- To finish and serve the pasta, fill a pasta pot or large stockpot with 6 quarts of water, add 6 tablespoons of salt, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. If you are not using a pasta pot, place a colander in the sink or have a wire strainer handy.
- While the water is coming to a boil, combine 1 1/2 cups of the ragù with the tomato sauce, butter, and 1/2 cup of the salted pasta water in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cook the sauce, stirring occasionally, until the butter is melted and the sauce is warmed through, adding more pasta water if necessary to obtain a loose, saucelike consistency. Reduce the heat to low while you cook the maltagliati.
- Remove the maltagliati from the refrigerator or freezer and drop them into the boiling water. Stir to prevent them from sticking together, partially cover the pot so the water returns to a boil quickly and continues boiling, and cook the pasta until it's al dente, about 2 minutes. About 1 minute before the pasta is done, place the sauce over high heat. Lift the pasta out of the cooking water, or reserve 1 cup of the water and drain the pasta, and immediately add it to the pan with the sauce. Cook the pasta with the sauce for 2 minutes, stirring gently with a rubber spatula so you don't tear the pasta, to stain the pasta with the sauce, adding some of the reserved pasta water if the pasta is dry and sticky instead of slippery and glistening. Turn off the heat and gently stir in the parsley. Add the finishing-quality olive oil, stirring vigorously and shaking the pan to emulsify the sauce, taking care not to tear the pasta in the process. Add the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and pecorino romano and stir to combine.
- Spoon the maltagliati in the center of each of six plates, dividing them evenly, and spoon any sauce remaining in the pan over the pasta. Use a microplane or another fine grater to grate a light layer of Parmigiano-Reggiano over each plate, and serve.
- suggested wine pairing
- Montefalco Rosso (Umbria)
PAPPARDELLE WITH WILD BOAR RAGU
Provided by Anne Burrell
Categories main-dish
Time 4h40m
Yield serves 4 as a main course or 8 as a first course
Number Of Ingredients 20
Steps:
- In a food processor, puree the garlic, carrots, celery and onions into a coarse paste. Reserve.
- Coat a large, wide pot with olive oil and bring to a high heat. Sprinkle the boar generously with salt and add to the hot pan. Cook the boar until it is VERY brown on all sides. Remove the boar from the pan and reserve.
- Ditch the excess oil in the pan. Add a few drops of new oil and add the pureed veggies to the pan. Season them with salt, and brown them until crud forms on the bottom of the pan. Scrape the crud off the bottom of the pan (don't let the crud burn- it adds A LOT of flavor).
- Return the browned boar to the pan and add the tomato paste and cocoa powder. Stir to combine and cook the tomato paste for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Toss in the chopped juniper berries.
- Add the wine and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and let the wine reduce by half.
- Add water to the pan so it covers the boar by about 1-inch. Toss in the bay leaves and thyme bundle. Taste the liquid and season with salt if needed (it will). Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce to a simmer and let cook for 3 hours, adding water as the liquid level reduces. Taste frequently and re-season as needed.
- During the last 30 minutes of cooking time, let the cooking liquid reduce and the sauce get thick.
- Also during the last 30 minutes of cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat to cook the pappardelle. Pasta water should ALWAYS be well salted. Salty as the ocean! TASTE IT! If your pasta water is under seasoned, it doesn't matter how good your sauce is, your complete dish will always taste under seasoned. When the water is at a rolling boil add the pappardelle and cook until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.
- While the pasta is cooking, remove 1/2 of the ragu from the pot and reserve.
- Drain the pasta and add to the pot with the remaining ragu. Stir or toss the pasta to coat with the sauce. Add some of the reserved sauce if needed to make it about an even ratio between pasta and sauce. Add the reserved pasta cooking water and cook the pasta and sauce together over a medium heat until the water has reduced. Turn off the heat and give a generous drizzle of the big fat finishing olive oil. Toss or stir vigorously. Divide the pasta and sauce into serving bowls or one big pasta bowl. Top with grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately.
- Wine Pairing Suggestion: Chianti
- Place the flour on a clean, dry work surface. Make a hole (this is also called a well) in the center of the flour pile that is about 8 inches wide (bigger is definitely better here). Crack all of the eggs and the yolk into the hole and add the olive oil, salt and 1 to 2 tablespoons water.
- Using a fork, beat the eggs together with the olive oil, water (or more if needed) and salt. Using the fork, begin to incorporate the flour into the egg mixture, be careful not to break the sides of the well or the egg mixture will run all over your board and you will have a big mess! Also, don't worry about the lumps. When enough flour has incorporated into the egg mixture that it will not run all over the place when the sides of the well are broken, begin to use your hands to really get everything well combined. If the mixture is tight and dry, wet your hands and begin kneading with wet hands. When the mixture has really come together to a homogeneous mixture, THEN you can start kneading.
- When kneading it is VERY important to put your body weight into it, get on top of the dough to really stretch it and not to tear the dough. Using the heels of your palms, roll the dough to create a very smooooooth, supple dough. When done, the dough should look VERY smooth and feel almost velvety. Kneading will usually take from 8 to 10 minutes for an experienced kneader and 10 to 15 for an inexperienced kneader. Put your body weight into it, you need to knead! This is where the perfect, toothsome texture of your pasta is formed. Get in there and have fun!
- When the pasta has been kneaded to the perfect consistency, wrap it in plastic and let rest for at least 1 hour. If using immediately, do not refrigerate.
- To roll the pasta: Cut off 1/3 of the pasta dough, reserve the rest and keep it covered.
- Squash the pasta with the heels of your hands to facilitate it going through the pasta roller. Dust with flour. Put the pasta through the roller set on number one. Roll the dough through 2 times, dusting it with flour if it feels sticky or tacky.
- Fold the pasta into thirds and put it through the machine on number one again.
- Change the setting on the pasta roller to number two and run the pasta through. Continue to roll the pasta through the machine, changing the setting each time to a larger number (this will make the opening on the pasta machine smaller). When you get to the desired thin-ness (I recommend number six), cut the pasta into 10-inch lengths. Flour the dough generously and stack them in a pile. Cover the stack with plastic or a clean tea towel and proceed rolling the rest of the pasta.
- When the pasta is all rolled, take 3 sheets of pasta and fold both ends of the pasta over each other until they meet in the middle.
- Using a sharp knife, cut the pasta rolls into 1-inch widths. Unroll the pasta "ribbons" and dust with semolina and reserve on sheet trays.
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